Близкия изток

[ВладиЧ]

От: Близкия изток

Дъг влезе пак в Турция.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

Nick & Barbara met up with me in Tblisi, & we headed south to Armenia.
sorta.
My GPS took me some stupid way out of town, and by the time we got back to the main road, we needed to head back north, before we could catch the main road back south.
I didnt realize this, & we just headed SE on the road we were on. Next thing you know, were at the border with Azerbijan.
oops!

we look at the map, no biggie, theres a cutoff road over to the other road about 10km back.
We started down that road, & after about 100 feet, the pavement ended.
No problem, its a decent gravel road.
then after 1/2 a mile, the decent gravel turned into potholes the size of Ladas, rocks, washouts, dust, etc.

sometimes people had cut off the road & went thru a field, which was much smoother, but for the most part, it was just REAL bad 'road'
we are weaving back & forth, trying to find a way thru. I kept hitting my frame on rocks & holes, but I never got stuck.
After about 12-15km, we came up on a small village, & stopped at a store for a drink.
I felt like I had eaten 10 pounds of road dust
Of course everyone in the village had to come out to see us, apparently not many harleys transverse this road.

We got several comments like
'dont you have a map?'
'what are you doing here? the main road is far away'
'you guys are friggin nuts' and so on.
they were all real nice, & happy to have tourists.
the road (in alabama we would call this a 'trail' at best)

*** *** *** *** *** *** ***

С Ник и Барбара се намерихме в Тбилиси, и се запътихме на юг към Армения. Или почти.

GPS-ът ми ме прекара през някакъв тъп маршрут на излизане от града, и за да излезем на главния път водещ на юг трябваше пак да обърнем на север.

Аз разбира се не се усетих, и се забихме по първоначалното пътче, посока югоизток. И докато се усетим - ето ни на азърбейджанската граница. Олеле !
Погледнахме картата - няма проблем, има някакъв пряк път на десет километра назад. Поехме по него, и след около 30 метра пътното покритие свърши. Няма проблем, останалото е сносен чакъл.
Хубаво, но след още 800 метра читавият чакъл се превърна в ями с големината на Лади, камънаци, наноси и т.н.
На места си личаха следи където хората са слизали от пътя и са продължавали през нивите, много по-равни. Но в по-голямата част си оставаше НАИСТИНА лош път. Сновахме напред-назад, в опит да намерим откъде да минем. Непрекъснато удрях рамката по камънаци и дупки, но така и не успях да закъсам.

След 12-15км стигнахме до малко селце и спряхме пред един магазин да си наквасим устата. Усещах се все едно съм накълтал пет кила прахоляк.
Естествено цялото село се изсипа да ни види, оказа се че не се срещат много Харлей по тоя път.

Обрахме доста коментари в стил:
- Нямате ли си карта ?
- Какво правите тук ? Главният път е далеч
- Вие луди ли сте ?

И тъй нататък. Хората бяха наистина мили и радостни че си имат туристи. На такъв път в Алабама в най-добрия случай да му лепнем етикет "Пътека".








in the village. even the village idiot was laughing at us

В селото. Дори селският идиот ни се изсмя.












we left the village, & soon pavement reappeared, we turned left & went to the Armenia border

Скоро тръгнахме, и настилката се появи отново. Завихме наляво и се понесохме към границата с Армения.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

the GEO side wasnt too bad, took about an hour tho, as we seemed to get there at coffee break or something.
I got thru, I went in a store to get a drink, & got waters for Nick & Barbara.
I walked back to the border to give them, & the border guard flipped out
'you cant come back here'
WTF? dude, Im just bringing them water
then he asks Nick if he knows me
(Im sure they get tons of harleys thru here, of course we pull in together, but we dont know each other)
Nick says yes, & the let me deliver the water
border guards can be such idiots
The ARM side took longer, as we all needed visas, which cost 10.00, and insurance, another 20.00
for the most part tho, it wasnt bad, just hot & crowded.

Armenian roads are a bit better than in georgia, & the drivers are MUCH nicer. it amazed me at the difference in the drivers.
Nick is on a set schedule, they have planned for weeks on where they will visit, motels reserved every night, papers showing
how far between each stop & the time needed to see things & drive to the next one.
Basically, the exact opposite of how I travel

I just sort of go, eat when I think about it, get a room wherever I am at nite, etc.
So running on a schedule is a bit weird for me.
1st stop in Armenia, thwe Haghpat Monestary.
I have to admit, this was a cool place, & if not for Nick, I probably wouldnt have gone out of the way to see it.
it was 5km off the main road, on top of a mountain.
It was built 800 years ago, on the site of a church built like 1600 years ago.
Armenia is a very ancient place I am learning.
And Im surprised how nice it is. I didnt know what to expect, but the country is beautuful, & all the people are very nice & friendly.
I highly reccomend it!

*** *** *** *** *** *** ***

От грузинската страна не беше чак толкова зле, отне около час, май пристигнахме в средата на почивката или нещо подобно.
Преминах, отидох в магазина да си купя нещо за пиене, и взех вода за Ник и Барбара. Върнах се да им я дам, и граничарят откачи. "Не можеш да се върнеш !". "А бе да те... пич, просто им нося вода ?". После пича почна да разпитва Ник дали ме познава. Така де, те понеже се събират на тази граница харлейчета с тонове, сигурно си помисли че сме паркирали заедно но че не се познаваме.

Ник каза "Да, познавам го", и ме оставиха да им занеса водата.
Това граничарите понякога са големи идиоти.
От арменска страна отне повече време, трябваха ни визи, които са по 10.00, и застраховки по 20.00.
В крайна сметка не беше зле, просто горещо и претъпкано.







Арменските пътища са малко по-добри от грузинските. Шофьорите са МНОГО по-възпитани. Направо ме шашна такава разлика.
Ник върви по разписание, седмици наред са планирали какво ще посетят, имат си резервации, документация, данни с разстояние между отделните точки, колко време ще им трябва от едната до другата. Точно обратното на моя начин на пътуване .

Аз просто се вдигам, ям където се сетя, спя където замръкна и така. Движението по разписание ми е малко непривично.

Първа спирка в Армения : Манастирът Хагпат.
Признавам - много готино място, и ако не беше Ник, сигурно щях да го огледам изцяло. На 5км от главния път е, на върха на планина.
Построен е преди 800 години, на мястото на църква построена кажи го преди 1600 години.

Оказва се че Армения е много древно място. И съм изненадан колко хубаво място е. Не знаех какво да очаквам - оказа се че страната е прекрасна, хората - добри и дружелюбни.

Горещо го препоръчвам !

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

Well, as we have to keep to schedule, we need to get to Yerevan tonite, as they have a B&B booked.
Due to the long border (almost 4 hours) Luckily, we gained an hour at the border, but we still didnt get to Yerevan til midnight.
Then we hired a taxi to take us to the B&B
this schedule stuff kinda sucks.
But, its fun hanging out with these guys, so I'll deal with it for awhile.
The next morning, we take off to do the sites around town.
first, we went to Echmiadzin, the Armenian vatican.
AR was the 1st country to adopt christianity 1700 years ago.
they had a treasury here with pieces of the ark, jesus' cross, & the spear that the roman stuck jesus with when he was up there.
no pics in there allowed tho.



then we get there, this place is huge
and very old, but the outer buildings are only a few hundred years old tho. the main chapel is from the 1200's

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

the Pope picks out a funny hat to wear















After this, we went to the genocide museum.
It seems as the Ottoman empire was dying, they wanted to take the Armenians with them, and around WW1 over a million Armenians living in
Turkey were killed, or marched to Syria, many died enroute.
Turkey still denies this happened, which is why the countries dont get along, & the border between them is still closed.
The Armenians REALLY dont like Turkey!
The US & EU has been trying to get a border open between TR-AR for years, & almost had it this year, but then Azerbaijan said
if they do, they wont be friends with TR anymore. The Azeri's really dont like Armenia.there is no border between them either.
To travel this area, you have to go thru georgia alot.

Why cant we all just get along?

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

some pics from around town, this is Mother Armenia, there used to be a stalin statue here long ago

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

The following day, we headed east to visit a couple of sites, before heading south.
first we went to Garni Temple, where the roman sun god helios was worshipped 2000 years ago.
This was a roman town & fortress before becoming a vacation home for armenian royalty.
the road there had a few bad spots























outside the temple, I met a nice couple from Iran.
They were surprised to meet an american, & wanted to assure me they were Iranian people, & had nothing to do with
amalambalad, or whatever the name is of the crazy president.
I told them it was the same with me, american people are not american politics, especially me, and that I really wanted to visit
their country, but couldnt get a visa.
There are alot of Iranians here for vacation.
Armenia amazingly enough, keeps good relations with the US, Russia, & Iran, all at the same time.
I would have thought that was impossible.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

Then we headed to the end of the road, up in the mountains at Geghard monestary.
it was founded 1600 years ago, & the monks lived in caves they carved out of the rocks.
Some just sat inside praying, & didnt leave. It looks like when they died, they just sealed up the small cave with a tombstone.
thats commitment!















several of these really old monestary had a hole at the top, & also a hole beneath it in the floor.
I think this is for pagan sunworshipping, but Im not sure.
Maybe they wanted a backup plan, in case the whole christianity thing turned out to be a fad?





also, there were carvings of goats over the door

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

Heading back thru Yerevan, then south to Khor Virap monestary, near Mt Ararat (of Noah fame)

Mt Ararat











theres a pit underneath, where people were sent to die. its over 100 feet deep.
St Grigor was held here for 13 years. Nick & I climbed down into it.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

what looks like a road here is actually the border with turkey.
I'm 200 yards from TR, but to actually get here, I have to go 300km or so north, thru georgia, then into turkey.
politics suck.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

we headed south for a ways, then I stopped, as I started hearing a noise from the motor, & wanted to check it out.
it was a knock, which sounded like it was coming from the front head.
One pushrod was way out of adjustment, so I adjusted it, but when turning it over, I'd hear a clunk.
I thought it was a broken valve spring, but when I removed the pushrod & pushed down on the lifter while turning it over, I found
it was the lifter making the noise.
shit. I knew the roller was bad.
So, we headed back to the last 'town' which was really just a border crossroads where Armenia, Azerbaijan, Turkey & Iran meet.
Very shady looking place, with who knows what kind of people. Luckily it was at the bottom of the mountain, so I just rolled downhill.
Sun was starting to set by now, which makes it even more fun.
I got ahold of Poly, and she worked on contacting the Hye Riders, a bike club in Yerevan that I had heard about, to find me a place
to work on the bike.
Then I had to arrange to get the bike back there, which after a few hours & many fone calls by the locals
(who acted like they were trying to help, but I could never really be sure) a guy with a big van stopped, & we asked him for a ride.
sure, no problem. cost be 25 bucks. I was very happy!
Its about midnite now, so Nick finally agreed to go on. I felt bad that he had hung out so long, I'd told him several times Id
be ok, but I was glad he didnt listen to me
I had visions of me sleeping on the bike ready to do battle at any time, but luckily, that didnt happen.
Poly & Slavi in BG had made contact with some guys in Yerevan, & we were taking the bike there.




at the border





they did have a gas station there.....





my taxi to the city

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

Next morning, at Varo's house, I tear into the bike.
He is in the Hye Riders M/c. I was happy to find a bike club here, as there really is not many bikes in this country at all!
its an ok place to work on a bike, as long as its not raining....

На следващата сутрин в къщата на Варо се заех с мотора.
Той е член на мотоклуб "Hye Riders". Бях щастлив да намеря мотоклуб тук, тъй като в тази страна изобщо няма много мотори!
Мястото става за работа по мотор, стига да не вали....



I tear into the motor

Захванал съм се сериозно с мотора





and find the problem, the roller fell apart. this is all brand new Sifton parts, with about 8-9k miles on them.
Sifton USED to be good quality. I guess they have gone to china crap now. I wont use them ever again.

И открих проблема - лагерът се е разпаднал. Всички тези части са нови от марката Sifton, на около 15 хиляди километра.
Sifton БЯХА части с добро качество. Предполагам сега са минали на китайски боклуци. Няма да ги използвам никога вече.



So now Im in Yerevan for a week while I arrange parts to come from the US.
Luckily, Andre, who is from Bulgaria & now runs a shipping company in LA offered to help. Shipping here would suck, because even
via fedex, the customs hold would be 2-3 weeks, plus probably some bribes to finally get them.
He has a friend flying here the following weekend, & will bring the parts in his suitcase.
Thanks to Nik & Jim, who went around & gathered the parts I needed.

И така, сега съм в Ереван за една седмица, докато уредя резервни части от щатите.
За късмет, Андре, който е от България и сега ръководи логистическа фирма в Лос Анжелис, предложи да помогне. Доставката до тук е куца работа, защото дори и чрез FedEx, митническия престой ще отнеме 2-3 седмици, плюс вероятно някой и друг подкуп, за да получи човек пратката.
Той има приятел, който ще лети дотук следващия уикенд и ще донесе частите в куфара си.
Благодаря на Ник и Джим, които обиколиха и набавиха частите, от които се нуждая.

Varo & his friend who is a welder. we went to his shop to remove the bad roller.
Another local guy went around town trying to find a bearing that I could use to replace it with, but had no luck.

Това са Варо и неговия приятел, който е заварчик. Ходихме до неговия сервиз за да извадим счупения лагер.
Един друг местен човек обиколи града в търсене на лагер, с който мога да сменя счупения, но нямахме късмет.





he does custom metal work, he handmade this fence, & here is his welder. amazing.

Той се занимава с метални изделия по поръчка. Ръчно е изработил тази ограда, а това е неговия електрожен. Удивително.

[Motosapiens]

От: Близкия изток

The guy in the middle is Ashot, from Ukraine. We know each other, he is the organizer of the Tarasova Gora bike party.
It was funny to run into him here!

Човекът в средата е Ашот от Украйна. Познаваме се, той е организаторът на мото-събора "Тарасова Гора".
Беше забавно да се сблъскам с него тук!



So I got a room, & dicked around in Yerevan for a week.
booooring
At least if the bike business falls thru, Im now qualified to get a job as a tour guide here.
I've wandered all over the city, the little buses only cost about .30 cents to ride, so I'd hop on one, ride for awhile lookin at stuff, get off, jump on another, etc.
when I was completely lost, I'd just take a taxi back to the hotel, usually cost 2-3.00
cheap siteseeing!

I found the gypsy market, lots of cool stuff here. I sort of became a regular, looking for treasures.
I got a clock from a russian T34 tank, a tank commanders wristwatch, some old soviet pins/medals, & other doodads.

И така, наех си стая и се пошлях из Ереван за една седмица.
Скууууука
Поне ако бизнеса с мотори се провали, сега имам квалификация да си намеря работа като туристически гид тук.
Обикалях насам-натам из целия град. Малките автобусчета струват само около 30 цента, така че се качвах на някое и се возех, зяпайки по най-различни неща, слизах и се качвах на друго и т.н.
Когато тотално се загубех, просто си вземах такси до хотела, което обикновено излизаше 2-3 долара.
Туристичски обиколки на далавера!

Открих бит-пазара и много готини неща на него. Кажи-речи станах от постоянните клиенти, обикалящи в търсене на съкровища.
Купих си часовник от руски танк Т34, ръчен часовник на командир на танк, няколко стари съветски значки/медали и други дрънкулки.